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Electrodes Again

September 12, 2012 Leave a comment Go to comments

I admit, I must have some kind of electro stimulation fetish. So guess what I did. I was building some more electrodes. Last week I visited my favorite hardware and home improvement store after long abstinence. Suddenly I found myself in front of the curtain section. Then – surprisingly – my eyes caught on some spheres used as end pieces for curtain poles. These kind of spheres I was looking for since ages. But I never searched at the curtains section, only around the hand rails.

Two of these spheres connected with a piece of acrylic tubing make for perfect insertable electrodes. So I grabbed the remaining three pairs and went to work. Since I couldn’t decide to what length I decided to go with three different lengths. They range from 6 cm over 8 cm until 10 cm in total. The small one should be perfect for sphincter stimulation.

Stuff You Need

Here’s the stuff I used to build those goodies.

  • spheres  from your home improvement store commonly found as end pieces for curtain poles
  • acrylic tube – mine was Ø 16 mm to fit the spheres
  • wires – I use preconfigured ones with molded 3.5 mm jack
  • other piece of wire
  • electroconductive epoxy glue (hard to get stuff and very expensive)
  • epoxy glue that bonds well on acrylic and metall (like technicoll 9403)
  • drill  – depends on your cable diameter (here 3.5 mm)
  • saran wrap to wrap around your acrylic tube (prevents scratches)
  • a saw – preferable one that cuts at a right angle
  • countersink

After I shot the picture some more things came in handy:

  • shrinking tube in different sizes
  • heat gun – a lighter will do it, too
  • some finer grade sand paper
  • mild solvent like naphtha or isopropanol to clean adhesive surface
  • tissues
  • soldering iron with solder
  • multimeter

Assembly

Be sure to get the right spheres. They come in a variety of styles. The ones I found are for 16 mm curtain tubes and have an outside diameter of 30 mm. Also they should be made of solid metal. Especially cheap ones are only coated plastic. Preferably their inside is slightly conical so they don’t need a set screw to hold on the tube. Such a set screw wouldn’t be desired here. First drill a hole for the cable in one of the spheres.

Breaking the edges with a countersink will ensure that there is no excessive wear on the cable. Mine were electroplated so I was removing the plating on the inside with some fine sand paper. After that a thorough cleaning is advisable to remove dust and fingerprints.  Your glue will thank you for that.

Once the spheres are prepared for gluing it is time to prepare the top section. Take some healthy length of wire, strip one end and glue it on the bottom of the sphere. There are several methods to attach the wire to the metal. Screwing didn’t seem practical since there is not enough material to hold a thread. Soldering seems to be the obvious choice, but my soldering iron is not powerful enough to heat up the full corpus. Having worked with electroconductive glue in the lab before I went with this method. Conductive silver won’t work here you’ll need some solid epoxy glue here. This stuff is kind a hard to get and very expensive. The picture below shows the three top parts while the electroconductive glue is curing. The acrylic tubes are not glued in yet. They only serve as a support for the short piece of wire.

While curing one can prepare to bottom part of the assembly. Run the bipolar main wire through the hole of the bottom sphere. At this point I decided to protect the wire the first few centimeters with some shrinking tube. I expect the edge of the sphere to be very abusive to the cable. The cable itself is secured by a figure of eight knot.

After the epoxy is cured I soldered the wires together and protected them with some shrinking tube. Now everything is dangling on the main wire. A second time the electroconductive epoxy comes into play to connect the other pole to the lower sphere. The picture below shows this joint curing.

Once this joint is fully cured you should test your connections with a multimeter. If everything works as expected it is time to finally glue the spheres to the acrylic tube. Therefore you should choose a glue that bonds very well on acrylic and metal. There exist several professional grade 2K epoxy glues for this task. Just make sure that this bond is really strong. You do not want to explain to the paramedics why there is a piece of metal and acrylic sticking in that ass. “This glue sucked” is clearly not satisfying them.

First take a healthy measure of glue to fix and seal the knot on the cable to the bottom sphere. Then apply glue to the inner side of the sphere and glue in the acrylic. Don’t forget to remove any fingerprints on the surfaces for the adhesive. If working with a very fast curing epoxy (like I did) you really should hurry up. I struggled with the microstatic mixer supplied with my glue since it started curing while I was still working. As soon as all joints are fully cured you should test whether you can rip it apart. Especially the sphincter is a surprisingly strong muscle.

Closing Remarks

Works best when used wet.

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Categories: DIY Playthings Tags: ,
  1. Gregarious
    October 7, 2012 at 13:59

    Nice find! You sure know your glues well. I would be curious what the differences between the lengths for different uses would be.

  2. elims
    October 9, 2012 at 09:39

    Well, to be honest, I had stuff for three electrodes and I couldn’t decide on the length. So I made three different. At least the small one fits the sphincter so that one sphere is outside and the other one inside. So I guess at the end it boils down to personal preferences.

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